How to Know if Vintage Will Fit: Trust the Measurements

You may have noticed that vintage and modern sizing don't line up. Those 1970s bell bottoms with size 10 on the tag are more apt to fit today's modern size 6 curves. The fastest, and more accurate, way to shop vintage with confidence is to know your measurements and compare the measurements of the vintage piece you're eyeing against what you know fits.

Vintage tags are adorable, but not reliable for today's sizing

A vintage tag tells you a lot: when a garment was made, who made it, what it's made of, and sometimes a size number. But you shouldn't rely on that size to know whether the piece will fit. That's why measurements matter more than what the tag reads.

Vintage typically runs two to three sizes smaller than modern sizing. For example, a 1960s size 10 dress will often fit a modern 6 to 8. Pieces from the 1950s and earlier can run smaller still.

Step 1: Know your own measurements

Soft tape, fitted clothing, snug but not tight. A mirror helps.

• Bust: around the fullest part of your bust, wearing the bra you'd wear with the piece.
• Waist: around your natural waist, the narrowest part of your torso. Bend sideways to find the crease.
• Hips: around the widest part of your hips.

For a full walkthrough with photos, see Cashmerette's guide to taking body measurements.¹

Step 2: Read our measurements

• Every piece is measured flat, and every number is approximate, even with a tape.
• Bust, waist and hip are measured across the front only. Double them to compare with your body.
• Dolman sleeves have no armhole seam, so bust and shoulder numbers are approximate.

• Tops, dresses, outerwear
  • Shoulder to shoulder: seam to seam at the top of the armhole
  • Bust: armpit to armpit where the seams meet
  • Waist: natural waist, about 2 to 3 inches below the bust, edge to edge
  • Sleeve: top of the armhole seam to the cuff
  • Length: shoulder to hem
• Bottoms
  • Waist: edge to edge across the waistband, not stretched (elastic gives 1 to 3 inches)
  • Hip: across the widest point, from the end of any zipper or button closure
  • Inseam: crotch seam to hem
  • Rise: top of the waistband to the crotch seam
  • Length: waistband to the longest hem
• Accessories
  • Shoes: listed size, plus width across the widest part of the sole and heel height
  • Rings: ring stick
  • Necklaces and bracelets: length open and closed
  • Scarves and shawls: all sides

Step 3: Compare, and allow for ease

• Your body measurement isn't the garment measurement. Ease is the breathing room between them.
• Allow at least 2 inches at the hip, and 1 to 6 inches in jackets and coats, depending on style.²
• Same number as your body means snug. Fitted pieces need less; relaxed or draped pieces have more.
• Bottoms: waistbands often sit lower than your natural waist, so compare the listing's waist measurement to where the waistband will sit on you.

The easiest shortcut

Measure a piece you already own and love, flat, the same way we do. Then hold those numbers up against any listing. It's the quickest way to know what works on you.

Come shop with confidence

Every listing has measurements. Shop new arrivals and let the numbers lead.

Sources: 1. Cashmerette, "How to Take Body Measurements for Sewing" (updated Oct 2025). 2. Fashion Conservatory, "Measurements, Size & Fit".